A First Timer's Experience Island Hopping in French Polynesia

by Chelsea Davis
Last updated: 7:00 AM ET, Sat December 30, 2023

I recently experienced the majestic beauty of the Islands of Tahiti — particularly Raiatea, Tahaa, and Moorea — and was truly blown away by what French Polynesia has to offer across the board.

As a first-timer, I was expecting the turquoise lagoons, overwater bungalows and vibrant coral reefs, but what I wasn't necessarily expecting was how genuine, kind and happy Tahitians are, and how much the culture's positive energy would affect my time on the islands.

Each of our guides and the individuals who we had the pleasure of interacting with, from business owners to natives sharing their stories of growing up here, brought to this trip a unique sense of authenticity that transformed it from a work trip to a memorable cultural experience.

Their passion for their respective roles, whether guiding us through historical sites, introducing us to local culinary specialties, or recounting personal anecdotes, added a genuine depth to our week spent island hopping.

Getting to Tahiti is relatively painless with French Bee's recent expansion which includes four nonstop U.S. routes to Paris, as well as affordable, nonstop flights from San Francisco to Tahiti (this is the only nonstop flight from this airport to Tahiti, otherwise it’s one layover in SF) and an interline partnership with Alaska Airlines from Los Angeles, New York, San Diego, Portland, and Seattle.

My eight-hour flight from San Francisco was super easy and convenient. Once on the islands, you get around mainly by car and taxi, or small plane or ferry if island hopping.

From swimming with stingrays to learning about the historical ancestry of the region, here's a look at how we spent our time on several of the Tahitian Islands over the course of a week.

Tahiti

Recognized as the heart of French Polynesia, the main island of Tahiti is the largest and most populous in the country's collection of 118 islands. Tahiti is where the majority of international travelers land, and while it's often used merely as a starting point before heading to another island like Moorea or Bora Bora, that would be a mistake.

Unlike most parts of the islands, the capital city of Papeete is quite metropolitan, making way for a vibrant scene influenced by French, Chinese and Polynesian culture in everything from its shops and cuisine to architecture and way of life.

Don't miss out on the bustling Marché de Papeete, a huge market that's been around for over 155 years, where you can shop the best deals on pearls, flowers, local crafts, textiles, authentic Tahitian cuisine, fresh fish and more. One of the best ways to explore the culture here is through its food.

Jump on a tour with Tahiti Food Tours, which will take you to some of the most classic spots in town including Café Rôti, Lucky Luke's and Restaurant Kozy where you'll eat traditional foods like poisson cru (marinated fish in lime juice and coconut), firi firi (a type of deep fried sweet dough), fish beignets and more.

Other highlights include touring the lagoon of Teahupoo known for its world-famous surf break and rugged beauty and hitting up the diverse food trucks in Vaipoopoo park. Popular with both locals and visitors, you can get everything from traditional poisson cru — the signature dish of the islands — to pizza and crepes. Not to mention it's a killer place to catch the sunset.

Stay at Te Moana Resort, which offers a stunning infinity pool, two restaurants and bars and modern rooms, all within a 10-minute drive to the airport. Another upscale option even closer to the airport is the relatively new Hilton Hotel Tahiti which offers luxurious accommodations with views of Moorea, as well as a large outdoor pool with private cabanas, three restaurants and multiple bars.

Moorea

To get to Moorea, we jumped on the Aremiti ferry for a quick and scenic 30-minute ride. Arriving at Moorea looks like you're entering Jurassic Park. With its jagged volcanic peaks and lush greenery, it's an absolutely stunning island best explored via hiking trails that lead to panoramic viewpoints, offering breathtaking vistas of the surrounding lagoon and mountains.

For a hike to remember, book a tour with Moorea By Foot led by the incredibly knowledgeable Asher Te Aurahi KORA. He offers a selection of both half-day and full-day tours, with each offering its own selection of incredible scenery ranging from craters, valleys and peaks to waterfalls and boulders.

When it comes to the water, you won't regret booking a tour with Corallina Tours' Maui Ciucci. The day starts with a cruise in Opunohu bay and through the beautiful lagoon of Moorea before snorkeling with the most incredible sea life ever.

Get up close and personal with stingrays, reef sharks, sea turtles and more as you swim through the brightest blue water. The tour then boats you to the family-run Cocoa Bay restaurant located on a private island serving fresh fish and classics, as well as burgers, grilled meats and cocktails.

Check in to the new Cook's Bay Hotel & Suites, which just underwent a two-year renovation. This modern property offers a restaurant and bar with 180-degree views of Cooks Bay, the surrounding peaks, and the Teavaroa Pass, as well as direct beach access and a shallow lagoon ideal for watching sea life including the four resident octopuses.

Raiatea

Taputapuatea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

From Moorea, you need to hop back on the Aremiti ferry to Tahiti to catch a quick flight from Tahiti-Faa'a International Airport to Raiatea, which makes a quick 15-minute pitstop at Huahine (you can stay on the plane).

Raiatea is yet another gorgeous island known for its rich cultural and historical significance.

Many believe that this island is the origin of the great Polynesian migration when large double-hulled sailing canoes embarked on a journey to colonize both Hawaii and New Zealand. Moreover, it's considered the resting place for the spirits of these pioneering ancestors and the island continues to be a sacred pilgrimage site to this day.

To really understand the cultural significance of it all, book a tour with cultural ambassador Tahiarii Pariente and his company, Polynesian Escape.

From a stunning vantage point at the Faaroa Tahiti Caldera to an in-depth tour of Taputapuātea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of great historical and cultural significance to indigenous Polynesians, you'll learn more on a tour with Pariente than with most.

Tahaa

From Raiatea, it's a short boat ride over to Tahaa (the two islands share a lagoon), a lesser-known island that has a whole lot to offer. This super lush, relatively untouched island is known for its vanilla plantations — Tahaa produces 80 percent of all Tahitian vanilla — and pearl farming.

For the ultimate day on Tahaa, book a Poerani Tours Land and Lagoon excursion with Teva, one of the most fun guides ever.

The day starts off at a vanilla plantation where you learn all about the process of hand-pollinating vanilla. It's a fascinating process requiring a steady hand and patience. Be sure to save some room in your luggage for Tahitian vanilla (it's the real deal here). The onsite shop features everything from vanilla rums and teas to pure vanilla beans and extractions for cooking.

Next up, we stopped by two rum distilleries — Mana'o Tahiti, the first pure cane sugar rum distilled and bottled in Tahiti — and Pari Pari. Enjoy tastings and educational tours at these two quality distilleries before making your way to yet another point of interest on the island — the Iaorana Pearl Farm.

Just like with the vanilla, Tahitian black pearls are another must on the souvenir list. This family-run farm offers complimentary tours and is happy to educate you on just how intricate the process is to farm high-quality pearls. It's a fascinating process that requires DNA planting in the oyster’s nucleus by hand. The onsite shop features countless gorgeous pearl jewelry so get ready to shop.

The day-long tour wrapped up with a homemade lunch on a private mutu. Our guides chose a stunning, untouched island to drop the anchor so we could enjoy a dip in the crystal blue waters before eating an incredible spread of poisson cru, baked chicken, a plantain and potato salad, rice and a few extremely flavorful crudo-style dishes. Our adventurous day concluded with rum punches as we watched the glorious sunset.

When on the island of Tahaa, make your homebase Pension Anahata, a family-run slice of paradise that sits right on the shore of the large bay of Ha'amene.

The private beach offers an Instagrammable swing, water sports that include kayaking and paddle boards, and plenty of peace and tranquility. With eight renovated bungalows, a few of which are on the beach, and a restaurant serving the most delicious, homemade cuisine, it was one of the highlights of our trip.

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