Queer Puerto Rico is Dynamic and Exciting

by Paul Heney
Last updated: 7:00 AM ET, Sat July 13, 2024

There are many reasons why someone might expect Puerto Rico to be less than welcoming for LGBTQ travelers. From the longtime anti-gay societal attitudes (not to mention laws) that seem endemic across the Caribbean to the island’s deep-seated Catholicism, the odds seem stacked against this U.S. territory. But Puerto Rico breaks through the stereotypes and surprises instead—the island of 3.3 million people is a bright, shining example of openness, while fully embracing queer travelers.

All About San Juan

Three-quarters of the population lives in the greater San Juan area, so not surprisingly, the majority of the queer community’s activity is located here. The Condado area is one of the centers of tourism in the city, with plenty of shops and restaurants alongside a lovely beachfront. Make sure to stop at the nearby gay bar Oasis Tapas & Lounge on Calle Condado for drinks or small plates; the vibe is that of a laid-back local hangout. A block north of the bar is an iconic stretch of the beach, with a Puerto Rican flag always flying, and most of the queer sunbathers gather about a block west.

The gay bar Oasis Tapas & Lounge is located on Calle Condado in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

There are several other notable queer bars here, including the big dance hall of Kweens Klub (which features plenty of drag performances) as well as Toxic and SX. All three are within several blocks of each other, about half a mile south of the beach in Condado.

For those who are part of the bear community, a group of local men organize a series of the Puerto Rico Bear Events, including meeting on Fridays and Saturdays at the El Purgatorio Bear Bar, located close to Toxic. The Tryst Beachfront Hotel in Condado also hosts a weekly Sunday drag brunch.

If you’re hungry, consider Asia de Lima and LadyBug—both are queer owned by two husbands. Asia de Lima serves Italian and Asian fusion fare (try the pear lover pizza or churrasco with Peruvian Thai sauce). LadyBug, next door, is an intimate bar. The name is derived from a disrespectful way to say gay in Spanish, and the owners have reclaimed it—similarly to the way that English speakers have reclaimed the term queer.

Stay and play

I stayed at the Sheraton Puerto Rico Resort & Casino, adjacent to the city’s convention center. I’d been to the convention center more than a decade ago, and at first wasn’t sure of the location. But a friend assured me that the area had changed dramatically, and I’m so glad I stayed at this location.

The infinity pool at the Sheraton Puerto Rico Resort & Casino is located on the complex's fourth floor.

Next to the Sheraton is a dynamic entertainment district called Distrito T-Mobile, with an Aloft Hotel, a huge DJ/performance space, and countless restaurants and bars. The center of the complex is covered by a huge rooftop, so even in inclement weather, you can wander its “streets” and stay dry. Every night, I was impressed by the energy and crowds here.

The Sheraton itself is impressive, too, with 503 rooms (22 of them suites), and five different dining options. My favorites were Mutuo (the lo mein was delicious and the Matcha Colada was inspired!) and the Bay Pool Bar & Grill. There’s a free shuttle to the beach and Old San Juan, and Ubers here are inexpensive, even on the weekends—I found that getting to the Condado area was often less than $10. Plus, the hotel’s rates run cheaper than similar quality hotels on the beach, making it a great deal for travelers.

Showing Pride

You’ll find Puerto Rico super queer any time of the year, but each year for Pride Month, the local True Self Foundation really amps up the game, with a series of fundraisers to benefit the local LGBTQ community. The group is a fighter for fairness in gender identity and has programs that assist individuals with costs for gender affirming surgeries and care.

During the final weekend of June, each year True Self boasts an All Out kickoff party on Friday at the Aloft, followed by an All Out 5k race on Saturday that includes plenty of music and fun. The party builds to a crescendo on Sunday, with a drag brunch at the Sheraton and then “Viva La Rooftop: H2oh! Edition” on the hotel’s expansive rooftop pool deck.

The rooftop party at the Sheraton was a lot of fun and included a fashion show of swimwear and other clothing designed by local members of the LGBTQ community here. There was plenty to eat and drink, poolside entertainment by drag queen Latoya Fruitpunch, and a live band. I’m already planning on returning next year with my husband, it was such a fun time.

Important Signifiers

Little things matter in hospitality, and I smiled at two small touches during my visit to the Sheraton. I noticed an advertisement for the hotel’s café in one of the elevators on my first day here, likely because the ad showed two handsome men enjoying a coffee. It wasn’t until later that night that I saw it again—and realized that one man’s hand was resting on the other’s forearm, clearly indicating they were more than friends. It wasn’t overtly queer, but for anyone looking closely, it was a sign that this was a welcoming place.

Similarly, a “Love is Love” sign placed on the breakfast buffet at Choices Restaurants’ breakfast buffet made me grin. While those might sound like silly or insignificant things to straight, cis travelers, for members of the LGBTQ community, those are important moments in letting us know that we’re celebrated—and safe—while in new and unfamiliar places.

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